

TACO CITY Y MAS PHOTOS DRIVERS
This mural at Masa Y Más beckons drivers on South Lamar The frijoles in both charros and refried versions are delightful, with the latter made of black beans for a nice Austin touch. The rice is packed with flavor and has an absolutely perfect texture. Luckily, the arroz Mexicano and frijoles are as good or better than any. The roasted beets seemed more boiled than baked, and the elote callejero would have been better served plain than drenched in huitlacoche mayo.

Despite this, they fall short of comparable dishes around town. The Brussels sprouts are topped with arbol hot honey, pumpkin seeds, and cotija cheese. Several offerings look absolutely tremendous on the page but fail in practice. Some might balk at the price tag on these tacos, which hang out at about $5 each (some more, some less), but they are generously filled, which lessens the sting a bit. Likewise, the vegetarian option with its mushrooms and potatoes will please all comers. This is a very simple food, but when done right, as it is here, the results are sublime. The can't-miss taco at Masa y Más, though, turns out to be the carnitas. The al pastor looks the part, but fails to deliver. The most pleasant surprise is the camarones taco, which has battered shrimp that is eerily similar to the honey walnut prawns one might find at a Chinese restaurant. While it's definitely on the greasy side, that's a selling point for this unctuous meat. Barbacoa is usually rich, and this version is no exception. The birria comes with traditional consommé for dipping (or slurping), and while it's no longer a surprise seeing it on a menu, this one is a fine example of the form. The suadero taco features seasoned brisket, an easy call in this barbecue-crazy town. The results are mostly good and occasionally great. The interior of Masa Y Más is bright and vibrantĬomprising eight offerings (with more as weekend specials), these tortilla-based entrées are why most people will walk through the door.
